Open Letter to La Maison and Velier
Calling all individuals within the beverage and spirits industry to acknowledge and stand together against white saviorism, colonization, and general disregard for systemic blocks placed upon Haiti.
I am Nicky Marcelin, a Haitian woman in Food and Beverage; I am a chef, recipe developer, business owner, and student. I grew up in Haiti. I have spent my life experiencing Clairin, its history, stories, and connection to spiritual practices. Clairin is the ancestral legacy left to me and fellow Haitians. It is a symbol of our determination, resilience and brilliance.
I was happy to see our Clairin gain footing in North America. Seeing individuals love, geek out, and awe over such a beautifully-crafted spirit brought about a new wave of pride among my people, as Haiti and its contributions are still a mystery to many. I saw Clairin distribution in America as the gateway for the world to see Haiti as more than a one-sided, sensationalized newsreel.
Recently, the blatant hate, ignorance, and disrespect spewed about Haitian producers and distillers by Luca Gargano, CEO of La Maison & Velier, came to my attention. He goes by Ruruki Gargano on social media platforms. I was shocked not only by his boldly-displayed beliefs that Haiti, its distillers, and people are primitive because of their practices--since his company profits off the very labor and practices of those individuals--but also by his insensitive and disrespectful profile pictures on Facebook. What was recently taken down was a declaration poster for the collection and arrest of an enslaved Black person wearing a metal screen tied over his face.
It is not an easy or light matter to write this letter. While I am not used to boldly leading the call to action, I want to get comfortable being in this space. Too often, those favored in society, especially within our industry, have gotten comfortable in the belief that if we follow the rules and play nice, things will change.
We have been taught that those at the top, the ones with power profiting from the artistry of Black and Brown folks for centuries, will change because they will finally see our power and contribution to this landscape. In reality, the words of the majority of these organizations and its leaders have been performative--a perfectly crafted PR exhibition so that the history books will read as if they were on the right side of history.
This letter is specifically for the stakeholders at LMV to hold themselves and their CEO accountable for his disregard of a culture, legacy, and its people. A few colleagues and I, joined in rum and advocacy, seek to come to the table with stakeholders to discuss the present challenges and consequent plan for resolution:
How LMV can make their ‘Distilling Partners’ true partners of the brand that sells bottles bearing their names through equity. As Spirit of Haiti grows as a brand, the farmers/distillers should see increased revenue
Significantly increasing the inclusion and representation of Caribbean beverage professionals within the Brand Ambassador portfolio.
Call for the dismissal of Luca Gargano as CEO, and company-wide diversity training for both Gargano and LMV employees.
LMV to review and reconsider the market education for clairin found in each individual area. Just as all Bordeaux wines are not Merlots, Clairin is extremely territory-driven and region-specific. Stronger emphasis differentiating that fact is necessary.
As Clairin grows in popularity, we would like the LMV to take a closer look at the fact that the majority of sugarcane farms in Haiti are going out of business. We would like LMV to support and revitalize this dying industry as Haiti cannot afford to, nor should have to, import sugar products.
A clear outline from LMV of the support that will be provided to the communities their partnering distillers are part of and embedded within.
Sugarcane, while an amazing crop capable of producing products that support communities, also have adverse effects on the ecosystem. How does LMV intend to support its partners to protect the already fragile ecosystem of the island and its Caribbean neighbors?
As a foreign company stepping into a community still healing and reeling from the hurt of its past, it is necessary for Clairin stakeholders and brand ambassadors to go through bias, history, diversity, and equity training. From statements released and actions taken since the incident, it is clear to the community, the company might not quite understand the power and effects of its actions.
As we understand Gargano succeeded in classifying rum through the “Gargano System,” we would like him and LMV to give up potential plans in classifying the Clairin category for the rum world. If you are reading this right now and you still cannot comprehend why it is wrong to go into a foreign land and classify their national product through the lens and standards of a white, male, Eurocentric gaze, the work that needs to be done is more than we can teach.
A pledge from LMV to hire more individuals of Caribbean descent to represent all Houses.
As industry veterans and I build a curriculum to better support distillers in marketing, selling, and building their individual brands on the island and abroad, and provide them with the proper tools and training when considering negotiations with much larger corporations, a pledge of monetary support from LMV would be appreciated.
The want for Gargano's dismissal comes forth because the beliefs of the leader enable those at all levels in the beverage industry, a continued comfort in unjust, unethical biases and views. We are asking for transparency of the relationships that are developed with distillers. We cannot expect a company led by someone with such views as Gargano’s to give Haitain distillers or Clairin the recognition and respect that they deserve.
Special thanks for the help, support and solidarity of Jahde Marley. Kigan Joseph & Jasmine Senavaretna.
Nicky is currently organizing a small program to train and help farmers understand nuances of partnering, selling or building up their brand, any help from veterans within the distribution space of spirits and wine would be greatly appreciated as we build up the program.